Lebanon: People replace their Argentina and Germany flags for Palestinian ones

The FIFA World Cup is over. Here in Beirut, Lebanese are passionate for soccer. It’s hard not to be. Everywhere you look, from restaurants to cafes, to people’s houses and cars, you see flags of–not Lebanon–but of the major popular soccer teams, especially Germany, Brazil, Argentina, Italy and France. Following Germany and Argentina’s advance from the semi-finals to the final match, the last few days have mostly been a sea of blue and white with Argentina fans, and black, red, and yellow for the Germany fans. When Germany defeated Argentina in extra time, Lebanese poured to the streets on their motorcades waving Germany flags and shouting from the tops of their lungs. People lit firecrackers, shot their guns in the air, and celebrated in the streets

A few days ago while with my classmates here at the American University of Beirut, I commented about the sheer number of people with Germany and Argentina flags (and of course those somber, but till proud Brazil fans). I also remarked about how people care more about their World Cup than they do about Palestine–ironic, considering we are in an Arab country. Following the kidnapping and murder of 3 Israeli teens near Hebron by unknown Palestinian assailants, Tel Aviv launched a massive offensive against Hamas in the Gaza Strip that has left almost 500 dead–Most of whom, women and children, according to the United Nations. There have been more children killed than “militants”. Here, people call them “freedom fighters”. Afterall, if you don’t recognize a people’s existence, then expect resistance.

If it’s the one cause that brings Lebanese together, it’s the Israeli-Palestinian conflict. Well, at least most Lebanese. Many Maronite Christians are still divided when it comes to Palestinian human rights, because of the Lebanese Civil War that was a consequence of the rise of Palestinian refugees into Lebanon. However the other confessional groups–Sunni, Shi’ites, Druzes, Greek Orthodox, etc. largely support the Palestinian cause. Today was a perfect example of that. The protest was held in Ramlet El Bayda, an area that straddles both north and south Beirut. Lebanese from all over the city came to unite in solidarity for the Palestinians. Apparently these occasions are rare.

Now that the World Cup has come to an end, people are beginning to focus on Israel’s assault on Gaza. It’s strange, but heartening to be a in country where the vast majority of the people are actually on the right side of humanity. In class, we learn words like “oppression” and “resistance” while referring to the Palestinian cause without having to fear whether or not we are “offending” anyone. What is happening in Palestine is accepted as a truth here in Beirut. This is largely attributed to the fact that Lebanon experienced Israel’s full military capabilities in 2006, after Hezbollah kidnapped 2 Israeli soldiers. Israel responded by bombing Beirut–all of it, not just the south which is largely controlled by Hezbollah. Ruins from the war that left over 1,000 dead–almost a third of those believed to have been under the age of 13.

If it’s anyone who would come remotely close to understanding what the Palestinians are undergoing in Gaza, it’s the Lebanese. Even though I am closer than ever to Israel and Palestine, I have never felt so useless in helping end the onslaught of the Palestinians. There is nothing that Lebanon can do to end the war, or to even help the Palestinians, under than helping the Palestinain refugees currently residing in Lebanon (which are treated like second-class citizens here). Most everyone here agrees that Israel is committing war crimes that are unjustifiable in Gaza. The protests express our solidarity with the people in Gaza. But they fall short in pressuring Israel to stop their “military operation”. Only in the US, where mass protests throughout the country have forced the Obama administration to demand Israel to stop the attacks do they have fruitful outcomes.

Nevertheless, the protests in Beirut are still important, and I only wish more people came. It’s one more country that disagrees with Israel’s actions and the US’ (and Egypt’s) complicity with. Pouring into the streets is one way we can express that. The World Cup is over. It’s time to take down the Germany and Argentina flags, and come together to fight for what really matters.

Check out this video of one of the protests in Ramlet El Bayda, Beirut:

Iran: On Passion pt.1

The Shrine of Imam Reza, the 8th Imam for Shi’ite Muslims

If you’ve ever met an Iranian, it won’t take long before you realize how passionate they are–about everything. From the Persian language to religion, politics, and of course–love, Persians are some of the most passionate people in the world, for better or for worst.

I’ll begin with what inspired me to write this blog post. No, I did not meet a husband in Iran, as many of my family members hope I would. It’s the birthday of Imam Mahdi, which here in Iran is widely celebrated. It is one of the most important holidays here in Iran because he is one of the key figures in Shi’ite Islam. Shi’ism is the official religion of the Islamic Republic of Iran. Iran is majority (90%) Shi’ite, containing a majority of the Shi’ite population worldwide. While most of the contemporary differences between Shi’ite and Sunni Islam are political, the split stems from after the Prophet’s death.

It began began after the death of the Prophet Muhammad [peace be upon him]. Muhammad never named a clear successor to guide Muslims. Some believed that Abu Bakr, the Prophet’s closest companion should take on the leadership, while others believed that Ali, Muhammad’s cousin and male next-of-kin, rightly deserved to takeover. Shi’ites believe that only Imams, who are blood-related to the first Imam for Shi’ites, Ali, or the 4th Rightly Guided Caliphate for all Muslims, have the divine knowledge to succeed Muhammad. The Sunnis however disagreed with this notion that authority over the Ummah (Muslim community) rested with Muhammad’s family. Each Imam would be targeted and assassinated. Poison was usually the popular weapon of choice.

Imam Mahdi was the Twelfth, and last Imam. Shi’ite Muslims believe that he went into “occultation”, or hiding in order to not be killed like his counterparts. At first he guided Muslims through deputies, or mediators who passed on his message. This is referred to as the “minor occultation”. There were four deputies who represented him. The fourth deputy announced on behalf of the Imam Muhammad al-Mahdi, that after the deputy’s death the deputyship would end. This would begin a new chapter in Shi’ite Islam, the Major Occultation, which continues to this day. Imam Mahdi will only reappear when “the world has fallen into chaos and civil war emerges between the human race for no reason”. Half of the “true believers” (referring to Shi’ites) will travel to Yemen carrying white flags to Mecca, and the other half will travel from Karbala, Iraq to Mecca, where the Imam will emerge. After the Imam’s reappearance, Jesus will also return. Together they will bring peace to the world.

Shi’ites pray for the Imam Mahdi to return soon. Many are convinced that it will be soon, considering the recent turmoil in the region. Their prayer for his return isn’t mechanic however, or felt as dutiful. Instead it’s genuine. I witnessed this when I followed my Grandmother and Aunt to a celebration of the Imam Mahdi’s birthday, at our family member, Aga Mousavi’s house. All the men filed into a separate room, while the women went upstairs to watch a live TV feed of the men’s room.

We sat huddled around the small TV in the women’s designated apartment. One of the women set tissue boxes on every table, which at the time I assumed was to clean our hands after eating all the customary fruits and treats you are given when visiting someone’s house. It wouldn’t be long until I learned how wrong I was. The TV was finally turned on, and we got an imperfect view of the room below with all the men. They were standing in front of a makeshift stage where Aga Mousavi and some other men were standing. Aga Mousavi spoke into the microphone, or rather yelled–I’m still not sure exactly what he was saying, but the men raised their arms above their head and started clapping–faster, then faster, and faster. They kept repeating the same thing over and over again while clapping. The women in the room followed suit, although they remained sitting. That’s when I learned what the tissues were really for. Many of the women began wailing, and crying for the Imam Mahdi to return. This basically went on for 4 hours. Check out this audio recording I took of the ceremony:

The passion Iranians have for the Imams in Shi’ism is like none other. It’s not just for the hidden Imam. I was fortunate enough to visit the shrine of Imam Reza, the 8th Imam. His shrine is magnificent. After going through meticulous security (following a massive terrorist attack on the shrine in 1994 by the Mujahiden-e Khak) you will find Shi’ites from around the world coming to pay their respect to the Imam. Some spend the whole day at the shrine, sitting down on carpets provided by the caretakers of the shrine and simply taking it all in for hours. I went inside to make a dua, or a prayer. The first dua you ever make is an important one–a lifelong wish you have for example. The ones after that are typically praying for the well being of your family, relatives and close friends. While it was definitely a spiritual experience, it was a little terrifying as well.

Many of the women worshipers (I was of course in the women’s section) revolved all their attention to Imam Reza’s tomb, and forgot the existence of everyone else around them. The only people in that room was them and the Imam’s tomb. People shoved, and pushed to get closer to his tomb. As someone not accustomed to this aggressive religious nature, I was a little frightened and flustered when it came time to leave the tomb, because I didn’t have it in me to push people out of my way. To be honest, this aggression took away from my spiritual experience visiting Imam Reza’s shrine. But it also speaks to the passion Shi’ites have toward their Imams.

I still remember one woman–I’m pretty sure she was Iraqi–Who walked all the way backwards to the entrance of the hall that houses Imam Reza’s shrine. She did not want to turn her back to him. I also remember all the worshipers crying, and wailing as if one of their own loved ones had died. Women sat against the walls for hours facing the tomb and reading prayers for the 8th Imam. They are truly devoted to their religion, God, his Prophet, and the Imams. For many Iranians, this is what their life revolves around.

Religion isn’t the only form in how Iranians’ profess their passion. It can be seen in other aspects of Iranian culture as well–Most prominently,  language, customs, and love, which I will talk about later. Religion however is definitely the most potent expression of passion I have seen in Iran. Passion isn’t just a Shi’ite characteristic. It’s an Iranian one. This is because it’s not only shared by the most ardent followers of Islam in Iran, but also by the more secular, “westernized” Iranians, as you will see in the second part on Iran’s passion.